Range Rover P38a EAS Valve block test box

Due to my wish to be able to test a EAS valve block off vehickle I decided to build myself a test box. This will make it easy to check the valve block for leakage before taking a decission to rebuild it and also for primary evaluation after a rebuild.

The box is quite straight forward to build and you can chose to use any kind of togle switches.
I went for smal 6A lever type switches as they make a god indication of if they are on or off, if you like to be fancy it is aways possible to use switches with indicator lights.

Valve bloxk pinout

I had a small box from an old wifi router that I used to hold the switches and wired it up to a connector to fit the valve pack (You either get one from an old valve pack driver or boy one from for example digikey. I simply wired +12V to center pin of all switches in the test box then a ground lead (-12V) to pin 10 and 11 of the test connector. Then simply wire the corresponding switch to the test plug pins 1-6 + 8 I left the others unconnected.

I also made an adapter so that I can use a small shop compressor to test the valve block off-car and bought a bunch of cheap manometers to be able to check for leaks over a period of time.
To be able to do a leak check of the valve pack it is not nessesary to hook-up a air reservoir (just plug port 6) or dryer (Use a jumper tube between port 5 and 7) and you can also omit the pressure switch and replace it with a plug or manometer.

I power it all with a 12V 50A Switched power supply bought at Amazon (Frequently used on 3D printers). This PSU also have enough power to be used for EAS Compressor testing and breaking them in gently.

The test box: Blu jumper hose is replacing the air dryer during valve block bench testing.
The loose flat contacts are for 12V power source.
the small black connector with the blue leads are for the diaphragm valve and are connected with standard 2.8mm insulated crimpcontacts.
Valves doesn’t care about polarity during testing.
Note: Valve block driver and pressure switch is not used in this rig and need to be tested in other way if required.

Left: Adapter for shop air compressore pressure to valve block, my compressor does not reach 150psi (I use 6-8bar) for leak check that is god enough since a low pressure actually reveal leaks in a better or at least as god vay as high pressure.

BOM:
Switches used by me:DigiKey P/N 2449-ANT11SECQE-ND

Connector parts:
PART: 344260-1-ND
MFG : TE Connectivity AMP Connectors / 344260-1
DESC: CONN RCPT HSG 13POS BLACK

PART: 344261-1-ND
MFG : TE Connectivity AMP Connectors / 344261-1
DESC: CONN TAB ANTI-BACKOUT 13POS YEL

PART: 17-345809-1CT-ND
MFG : TE Connectivity AMP Connectors (VA) / 345809-1
DESC: CONNTACT TAB 20AWG CRIMP TIN

Suitable Powersupply Car battery or: Switched Power supply
A bunch of manometers are usefull for leak check of the valve pack.
Get some here: Manometers 1/8″ fitting
And some pneumatic tube adaptors for the manometers.
NTP 1/8″ female to 6mm pneumatic tube